非遗视角下杭罗技艺特征与当代活化路径研究

Research on craft characteristics and contemporary revitalization paths of Hangzhou leno from the intangible cultural heritage perspective

摘要

针对杭罗织造技艺在当代传承中存在的价值认知模糊、活化路径单一等问题,以杭罗织物为研究对象,综合运用文献研究、实地调研与案例分析法,在中国丝绸博物馆、浙江省非物质文化遗产馆及星巴克河坊街非遗概念店开展实地调研,系统剖析杭罗品类特征、核心技艺--水织法的工艺价值,梳理杭罗织机形制演变规律,总结当代活化路径。结果表明:杭罗可分为横罗与直罗、素罗与花罗,横罗以五梭罗为经典规格;水织法通过纬纱浸泡脱胶、带水织造与张力精准控制,使织物挺括透气、形态稳定;传统杭罗织机经半自动化改造后,生产效率提高。当代已形成馆藏展示、商业融合、跨界应用三条多元活化路径。

Abstract

To address the problems of vague value recognition and single revitalization path in the contemporary inheritance of Hangzhou leno weaving technique. Hangzhou leno fabric was taken as the research object, and literature research, field investigation and case analysis were adopted, and field investigations were carried out at China National Silk Museum, Zhejiang Intangible Cultural Heritage Museum, and the Starbucks Hefang Street Intangible Cultural Heritage Concept Store. The category characteristics of Hangzhou leno and the craft value of its core “ water-weaving” method were systematically analyzed, the evolutionary patterns of traditional Hangzhou leno looms were traced, and the contemporary revitalization paths were summarized. The results indicated that Hangzhou leno could be classified into horizontal leno and vertical leno, as well as plain leno and figured leno, with five-shuttle leno representing the classic specification of horizontal leno. Through weft yarns soaking and degumming, water-weaving and precise tension control, the water-weaving method rendered fabric crisp, breathable, and stable in shape. After semi-automatic transformation, the production efficiency of traditional Hangzhou leno looms was improved. At present, three diverse revitalization paths have been formed: collection display, commercial integration, and cross-field application.

关键词

杭罗 / 非物质文化遗产 / 水织法 / 多元活化

Key words

Hangzhou leno / intangible cultural heritage / water-weaving method / diverse revitalization

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基金资助

河南省科技攻关项目(242102230041)